Milan has cemented that the 80s are back in a big way with lurid color combinations, oversized masculine coats, belted waists and opulent furs. There was a confidence here in Milan; Gucci has ignited a fire in global consumers that has yet to dim, and despite decreasing numbers in sales and shops closing around the globe, Prada marches on and solidified why we all look to Miuccia to show us the future of fashion. Here are the top five collections of Milan Fashion Week.
There was something eerie and disquieting about the operating theaters that housed the new Gucci collection. With the blip of a heart monitor, the dial tone of a telephone and the screech of a violin, the show began. Models paraded out one by one donning beautiful oversized coats, long velvet renaissance gowns, and the most intriguing and jarring Anarchist balaclavas. (Also seen at Calvin Klein and Dior.) What Michele does so cleverly is the mixing of different cultures from around the world, which perhaps appeals to the new internet shopper who comes from every corner of the globe. NYC-dwelling Yankees fans included. This was a celebration of the odd and the tacky. And if you don’t like it? As one commenter put it: “Try not to get upset by the fun the rest of us are having.” Agreed.
Miuccia Prada is infamous for drastically changing her collection season after season, rendering the previous collection obsolete. But she didn’t do that here. On display here were eye-catching colorful coats, embroidered tulle dresses paired with neon socks and gloves and nylon bucket hats. There were common threads in fabrication, colors and silhouettes from last season, as well as Pre-Fall and her Resort collection from last year. Some may call that repetitive, some may say it's conservative and commercial. Others have said she’s trying to appeal to a millennial shopper with the throwback Prada Sport logos. Do millennials even want Prada? These are some of the many questions the company has to answer going forward, but, who cares? Certainly not Mrs. Prada.
After a rocky debut collection and an impressive men’s show last season, Francesco Risso finally feels like he’s hitting his stride at Marni. His brightly colored patent leather coats were surely one of the season's best offerings of outerwear, and his sporty knit tops and bottoms were effortlessly cool. The passage of fringy silk and sequin dresses at the end were real standouts too.
4. MONCLER 1 BY PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI
Pierpaolo Piccioli kicked off Milan Fashion Week with the first of eight collaborations for Moncler, dubbed ‘Genius Group’ by Remo Ruffini. And if the name felt slightly pretentious, the collection was anything but. Leave it to Piccioli to take a garment as ordinary as a goose-down puffer coat and elevate it to new heights and dimensions. Literally. This presentation is sure to make all of the other designers ask themselves “Why didn’t I think of that?”.
Backstage, Alessandro Dell’Acqua referenced his affinity for the look of a Majorette, but "in a more melancholic way". More melancholic, than patriotic, one would think. During the show, Chris Isaak's ode-to-obsessive-love Wicked Game blared on the runway. It seems whether in love (repeated pursuit) or in global politics (excessive patriotism), too much of a good thing is, well...too much. That mood came through here in the clothes with flirty 1920s beaded shift dresses, bold embellished sweaters, sexy chiffon cocktail dresses, paired with sober military style coats and of course, the Majorette band hats. This girl is dressed like she's ready for battle - even if it's a losing one.