Fashion journalist Anabel Maldonado and fashion stylist Nicholas Hilton message back on forth on Instagram to recap the collections. Today: Dior Spring '18 Couture by Maria Grazia Chiuri.
AM: So, Dior...
NH: Where do we begin?! She is so literal in her references. It was fine. Just fine. Not amazing, not grand and beautiful, just fucking fine. And that’s sad for a house as amazing and rich in stories as Dior is. This was so bland. For a house that is supposed to compete with Chanel, I expect more. The only thing that saved her boring designs were Stephen Jones’ amazing masks and the craftsmanship the atelier showed. This was all just stale. And derivative. And just the mere fact it’s hard to tell her RTW and couture apart is very telling to me..
Where is the magic? The dream? It’s gone from Dior. She has so much in that archive to pick from. And this is what she does? I mean, get a grip, lady. She has to know what people are saying. Man, we took Raf for granted. 😔
AM: You’re on fire!
NH: I just... I can’t even begin to express my disappointment with her. I loved her at Valentino, so I was excited. I wanted it to work out so badly. WE WERE ROOTING FOR YOU! WE WERE ALL ROOTING FOR YOU! HOW DARE YOU?! Hahaha.
AM: Haha. But that’s just it, her Dior was disappointing since day one, and I think it tells us who the talent at Valentino was...
NH: Yes! She was clearly the boring one that pushed those plane, monastic dresses at Valentino. Which worked for a house like that. This isn’t Dior. Not anymore.
AM: I also can't figure out why the industry is being so lenient.
NH: I KNOW! I can’t figure that out either. At least Cathy Horyn snatched Maria’s wig. I’m not gonna say it’s Lanvin-bad, but it’s creeping ever so slightly towards that point.
AM: It’s creeping! Let’s hope they end up appointing Alber...
NH: And what really gets me is that she isn’t at a point in her career when she can send whatever the hell she wants down a runway and people clap for it. She isn’t that prolific. Rei can do it, Marc and Miuccia, and Dries and Raf.
Why? Because Miuccia is Prada and Prada is Miuccia. Marc can choose to send an "eh, OK" collection down the runway. They own their labels. It’s their name. They take full responsibility for their collections.
Maria is so out of touch with what Dior is and was. These clothes - these gowns.... a touch of Valentino, maybe a bit of Riccardo’s Givenchy and hell! Even a touch of Giambattista in the mix. All with a Dior label stitched in. That doesn’t make it Dior. Not to me.
Sorry, I’m fired up. Haha. Alber to anywhere please!