For Spring 2020, Christian Siriano took inspiration from modern pop artists whose work is rooted in female empowerment. But I speculate that you don’t care about that. The statement is redundant on many levels, with art eternally inspiring fashion, and clothes, naturally, being intrinsically linked to female empowerment, whatever shapes and forms they happen to take.
In the case of this collection, what shapes and forms didn’t they take? There were some fantastic dresses in Siriano’s collection, but there was also a bit of noise. Celebrated for his diversity, the designer had models of difference ages, genders and sizes walking down his runway, but this variety translated to the there’s-something-for-everyone approach and one too many stories in the collection, which could have used a bit of editing to allow the good stuff to shine.
And good stuff there was. The strongest pieces in the collection are the type that made Siriano a red-carpet favorite, and relied on the millennial designer’s flair for dramatic silhouettes, playful proportions and flirty flounces, but were reimagined with new color-block elements. Serene sea green and optimistic sunshine yellow contrasted with a cream shade, while fairytale pleated-tulle elements juxtaposed with elegant crepe draped panels. Shimmer with matte.
Interestingly, his best pieces look European, bringing just the right hint of romance, and flirtation with the avant-garde, to New York. The woman who wears his pieces will adopt a similar mindset: sensible and no-nonsense, and yet, perhaps sometimes, wearing her heart on the end of one of those poofy big sleeves.
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